Thursday, September 1, 2005

Samurai-Style: The 47 Ronin

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Behind the gate of the Ichirikiya, the world of old Japan lives on.


Among flowers, the cherry blossom;
Among men, the Samunrai.
Japanese Proverb


The fame of the Ichirikiya, Japan's most renowned teahouse (a place where Geisha entertain) has nothing to do with "Memoirs of a Geisha," the fictional fairytale still largely unknown in the land where it purports to takes place. Instead, its everlasting honor and ultimate preeminence comes from its part in Japan's national legend: The historic tale of the 47 Ronin, or masterless samurai. (The kanji for Ronin

 浪人 actually means drifter, as in one who is tossed about as the waves in the sea).

The story of the 47 Ronin is one of the most celebrated in the history of the samurai. This was perhaps all the more so because it occurred at a time when the samurai class was struggling to maintain a sense of it’s self - warriors with no war, a social class without a function. Over time, the story became a symbol of loyalty to one's master, and later (especially during WWII), of loyalty to the Emperor.


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The bright red walls of the Ichirikiya, which concealed the leader of the 47 ronin.

The fateful series of events began to unfold in 1701, when the young daimyo of Ako was instructed to receive the emperor's envoys as they paid respect to the Shogunate. In order to properly perform this duty, he was placed under the tutelage of a corrupt, yet powerful, official in the hierarchy of the Tokugawa Shogunate: Kira Kouzukenosuke. Angry that Ako ha not seen fit to offer a bribe for his services, Kira verbally abused Ako, insulting and humiliating him in public while refusing to teach him proper court protocols. Finally during a meeting at Edo Castle, Kira told Ako he was a poor country boor with no manners. Ako lost his temper, drew his short sword and struck Kira, wounding his face. The second swing of his sword missed and hit a pillar.

Kira's survived, but the attack on a shogun official within the Edo palace, where any kind of violence, even drawing a sword, was forbidden, was a serious offense. Ako was forced to commit Seppuku of hara-kiri, ritual suicide, the very same day, with a decree that revenge taken on Kira was strictly forbidden. Of Ako's more than 300 men, 47 refused to obey and made a secret oath to avenge the death of their master and accept their fate.

Kira, however, was no fool, and expecting retaliation from Ako's samurai, fortified his residence under heavy guard. To quell the suspicions of the Shugunate and Kira, the 47 ronin spilt up and became tradesmen, monks, and in Oishi's case (their leader), playboys. He moved to Kyoto and commenced to party it up like it was 1799, seeking refuge from spies in the exclusive Ichirikiya in between brothel and tavern visits.


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Drunk and stumbling home one night, Oishi fell down in the street and passed out. Onlookers laughed, and one Satsuma man, so infuriated by his 'conduct unbecoming of a samurai insulted him for his lack of courage in failing to avenge his master's death, kicked him in the face and spat on him (to even touch the face of a samurai was a great insult, let alone kick it). Soon after, concerned that her husband was taking the act too far, his faithful wife of 20 years questioned his behavior. He divorced her on the spot and bought a beautiful concubine to take her place

When word of this reached Kira, he became convinced that he was no longer in danger. When he began to relax his guard, the rest of the ronin gathered in Edo. As workmen and merchants, some of them were able to gain access to Kira's house, familiarizing themselves with its layout and the character of those who guarded it. One of them even married the daughter of the house architect in order to obtain plans while others secured arms sent them to Edo.

When the necessary preparations were made and Oishi was convinced that they could catch Kira off his guard, he fled Kyoto to the secret meeting spot in Edo, where they renewed their vow of vengeance. On the morning of December 15, 1702, under the cloak of a heavily falling snow, Oishi and his son led the attack on Kira's estate.


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At their last supper, the men had agreed that they would cut off Kira's head and offer it at the tomb of their master before turning themselves in to face their deaths. Oishi also asked that they take care to spare the women, children and helpless people in the attack. After breaking thru the guard at the Kira's gate, he even sent messengers to the neighboring houses, explaining that they had not come as thieves but as retainers out to revenge the death of their master, promising bring them no harm. In their hatred for Kira, the neighbors did nothing

After a fierce battle with Kira's men, Kira himself was no where to be found. Oishi checked his bed, the warmth of which promised he could not be far. In their search they discovered the entrance to a secret courtyard hid behind a large scroll. Hiding in a storage building they found a man who refused to disclose his identity. Under the light of a lantern the scar on his head from Ako's attack betrayed him, making it clear to the men that it was indeed Kira .

In a show of respect for Kira's high rank, Oishi got down on his knees and respectfully addressed him, announcing that they were retainers of Asano, come to fulfil their duty by avenge his death. Handing Kira the same dagger Ako had committed Seppuku with, he invited Kira to die as a true samurai, taking his own life. He even offered to act as a second (as portrayed in Algren's first encounter with 'The Last Samurai', when he cuts off the head of his friend after he commits seppuku), but Kira was speechless, trembling with fear. Finally Ōishi ordered the others to hold him down as he cut off his head with Ako's dagger. Extinguishing the lamps and fires in the house (lest any cause the house to catch fire, and start a general fire that would harm the neighbours), they sent out for the grave of their master, carrying Kira's bloody head, while the youngest ronin was ordered to travel to Akō and inform them that their revenge had been completed. Along the way they were praised by the common people for their courage.

At the temple, they cleaned Kira's head in a well, laying it and Ako's dagger before his tomb. After praying, they left all their money to the abbot, asking for a proper burial before turning themselves in.

Although the ronin had followed the precepts of bushido (the way of the warrior) by avenging their lord, they had also undermined the authority of the shogunate, which had forbidden their revenge. On Febuary 4, 1703, the shogunate graciously allowed the 46 men to commit Seppuku rather than be executed as criminal. A truly happy ending, by Japanese standards.

The forty-seventh ronin eventually returned from his mission, and was pardoned by the Shogun, perhaps because of his youth. He lived to be seventy-eight, and was then buried with his comrades and his lord at Sengakuji. The clothes and arms they wore are still preserved in the temple to this day, along with the drum and whistle used in the attack. (Their armor had been home in order not to arouse suspicion by buying it).

The tombs became a place of great veneration, and people flocked there to pray. One of those who came was a Satsuma man, the same one who had mocked and spat on Ōishi as he lay drunk in the street. Addressing the grave, he begged for forgiveness for his actions, and for thinking that Ōishi was not a true samurai. He then committed seppuku, and was buried next to the graves of the ronin, who many feel were the finest examples of samurai loyalty to emerge from the Edo Period.


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Wednesday, August 24, 2005

A Summer Stroll in Ponto Cho

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Hisano, a beautiful young maiko from Ponto-cho in her casual daytime yukata, sheilded from the scolding summer sun by a Japanese paper umbrella.

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Hisano strolls along the narrow alley known as Pontocho, the second largest traditional entertainment district in Kyoto, after Gion. Running 500 meters (0.3 miles), it is bordered on the east by the Kamo river and the Takase-gawa canal to the west.

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A clear sign the summer has come. More than 80 of Pontocho's restaurants, bars, and other establishments set up wooden balconies on stilts over the canal on the west bank of the Kamo River, between Nijo Street and Gojo Street.

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The famous Kamo River has been the backdrop of the Geisha and Maiko of Kyoto since the mid 17th century, when the first tea houses of Gion and Pontocho sprang up. Summer is the perfect chance to enjoy dinner by the cool, clear waters of the Kamagawa.

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The mountains fade into blue as your eye follows the path of the river downstream, until its hard tell where the mountains end and the clouds begin

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Pontocho's mon (crest) adorns the bright red lanterns that line the narrow alleyway, bringing a soft glow to magical evenings among the old buildings, illuminating ephemeral glimpses of geiko and maiko as they disappear into the night. The chidori is a small bird known as a plover, often spotted along the banks of the Kamogawa.

Tuesday, August 2, 2005

Lindsey's Farewell Fireworks: Osaka Style

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Right about now Lindz is somewhere over Asia, on her way to the tropical paradise that is Thailand. I should be sitting next to her on the plane, reading a lonely planet guide to my Thai adventure or struggling with Thai expressions like, "Spicy, please!" but thanks to my Board of Evil (aKa Education), I am stuck in Ena, with nothing to do but blog about our fantastic farewell weekend in Osaka

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Saturday was Lindz last day at Nova, so while she struggled to get thru it I spent a rough afternoon shopping in Namba! Her farewell party was at Ninikuya (the Garlic Shop), a beautiful resturant with an eclectic menu featuring a delicous array of dishes dashed with garlic. The bathrooms are fully equipped with toothbrushes and toothpaste for all those foul breath faux paus that such a selection is destined to cause, but it was delicous! The best part about it all was that Mitsu was able to come too, and since he's on his way to Tampa Bay, Florida, for the next year, it was the last time we'd all get to party together. Even though he kept stealing my food, it was great to see him again!

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After dinner we peer pressured him to join us for Karaoke, a staple of party culture in Japan. Of course he couldn't resist the chance to hear our beautiful voices so he trekked back to Shin-Osaka with us. Highlights of the jam session included his rendition of Rakuen Baby (listen to it here: track #5) by Ripslyme and Mr.Big's I'm the One Who Wants to be With You, a cross cultural favorite! I got some pretty entertaining video of it all, if I ever figure out how to upload it...

After everyone else went to sleep we decided to watch The Beach, in honor of Lindz encroaching departure. We didnt pass out til after 6 AM! Unfortunately, I had a reservation in kyoto at 3, so we had to be up a ready to go by noon. But that's for another post!

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Lindz' friend Yukiyo had invited us to the PL (Perfect Liberty, a new religion in Japan) fireworks display in Tondabayashi, PL`s Holy Land. Its the largest display in the world, with over 120,000 fireworks! We headed to Yukiyo`s, where her mother and 6th grade sister struggled to dress all three of us in Yukata in time to brave the crowded trains and streets early enough to secure a good seat, which we did, 3 hours before the show began. As we walked around the crowded lot admiring yukatas, I found a few admirers myself. A Japanese man yelled out "Kawaii!" a few times before braving a "Hello!" to get my attention. "Mecha Kawaii! (Super cute)," he assured me, smiling. "Niateru! (It suits you!)." As we headed back to our seats (a plastic bag stretched out on the hot concrete of the Holy PL Parking Lot, a Peruvian man walked up to me, looked me up and down and said "Hola guapa!" Hmm...Maybe I should wear yukata more often!

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The fireworks were well worth the the wait! Its been a long time since I saw fireworks, but these were amazing. They were sending hundreds up at a time, for over and hour!

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PL is the world's largest yearly display of fireworks, with over 120,000 fire flowers blooming in the stars (a typical fireworks festival will launch between 5,000 to 10,000). Highlights include "Niagara Falls", a 50 meter high, one kilometer long river of falling fire (pictured left). The grand finale, a firestorm of more than 7,000 fireworks launched at once, transforms the night sky into a burst of light, if only for a moment.


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The music was kind of creepy- new age PL style- and probably loaded with subliminal messages to join the dark side, but we survived unconverted.


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The finale was incredible. The sky lit up like it was broad daylight, and the sound rattled the ground beneath me and caused my heart to skip a beat. It was terrifying and breath-taking. I got video of that, too!

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We ended the night at a sentou, or pubic bath/onsen, where we soaked the marathons of walking we had done over the weekend away.I passed out staring at a huge poster of Johnny Depp playing the piano hanging on Yukiyo's ceiling. It was after 2 AM (I had to be up by 4:30 to begin my trek back to Ena), but it was the perfect end to an amazing weekend!


Sayonara Lindsey-san! I'll miss you!

Thursday, July 28, 2005

Osaka Bound! 大阪へ!

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Yuko (one of my best friends from Kansai Gaidai) and I in front of Namba's Neon wall, with the famous Glico Running Man (Glico is a Japanese candy company).

I'm headed for Osaka this weekend to say Sayonara to Lindz, fellow maiko wannabe, and general Japan-land partner in crime, ready to repatriate herself after a year of teaching for Nova.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Gion Matsuri Maiko: Makiko

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This is young Makiko, a maiko from Gion, on her way to watch the Procession of Dieties with her patron, the mop of grey hair hidden behind her glossy black lobes. The swarms of people gather along Shijo-dori parted like the Red Sea as gracefully glided towards the shrine. This is Makiko's first or second Gion matsuri as a Maiko! Her upper lip is still covered in the white makeup that overs the rest of her face, and her collar is still predominantly red. As she advances in skill and experience, she will be able to paint her upper lip in deep crimson, while her collar will gradually become less ornate, until she becomes a Geiko.

Gion Matsuri: Procession of Dieties

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Ususally the only shot of Yasaka Shrine one can get is with a few ugly buses, taxis and cars streaking thru the foreground, but with Shijo-dori closed to traffic for the procession, the street is filled with happi-clad mikoshi carriers and lined with excited onlookers. Here, three mikoshi, or portable shrines, rest before Yasaka Jinja (shrine) before being carried by the men in white throughout the streets of Gion.

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There is something strikingly Biblical about these mikoshi...I remember the first time I saw one at the Kurama Himatsuri during my Gaidai days, I immediately thought of the Ark of the Covenant. I am completely aware that there is a very descriptive description (redundant much?) of the Ark in the Bible, and that is it very different from what you see before you here, but the thread that joins all of mankind and its history together is, for me, blatantly aparant in these ancient traditions. You can't tell me that the ornamentation on the roof of the mikoshi doesn't look like a menorah!

Unlike the festival hoko floats, Mikoshi are not pulled, but carried on the shoulders of many men. Not only are they carried through the streets of the city for hours, they are thrown into the air and jostled about to excite the crowd. After bouncing the Mikoshi down Shijo a bit, these men made a turn onto the Hanamikoji, "Wasshoi"-ing their way past the Ichirikiya, the most famous Ochaya ( 'teahouse', where Geisha and maiko entertain) in the history of Japan...

Saturday, July 23, 2005

Gion Matsuri : Yoiyama Kyomai 

祇園祭り:よい山の京舞

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Mihoko (left), recently graduated from senior ranking maiko to full-fledge Geiko, performs Kyomai for the Yoiyama festivities with the maiko Ichimiyo. Their uchiwa, (Japanese fans) are decorated with their name, and the districts of Gion that they represent. When Geiko or maiko entertain during Gion Matsuri, they give their patrons one of these fans as a keepsake.

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Last time I saw Mihoko, she was dancing as an apprentice in the Miyako Odori. She looks so much more refined and elegant as a Geiko!

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Kyomai, or Kyoto Style Dance, developed in western Japan under the influence of Noh theatre. Unlike other odori, or kabuki styled dances developed in Edo, Kyomai is performed in Washitsu, Japanese style tatami mat rooms, where its subtle movements, the embodiment of the elegance and sophistication of the imperial court, can be viewed at close range .

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Kyomai is not meant to be performed on stage, but in the intimacy of Japanese rooms .

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Gion's entertainers practice the Inoue school of Kyomai. This style of dance is very different from that performed in Kyoto's other entertainment districts

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The Inoue school is characterized by minimal motions based on the masked drama of Noh and the puppetry of Bunraku.

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Even in this picture, if you compare the gesture of the hands between the Mihoko (Geisha) and Ichimiyo (maiko), the difference in mastery of these simple movements is clear.

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Geiko present themselves in a much more subdued fashion because they do not need the bright colors and flashy ornamentation to compensate for their lack of skill.

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Kyomai symbolizes the gracefulness and lifestyle of the imperial family.

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This is the fruit of my Japanese language labour...I was able to read the kanji foretelling the appearance of Geiko and Maiko performing Kyomai, as well as the names written on their uchiwa! Obsessed as I am, this gave me a great sense of accomplishment and furthur motivated me to press on! Who knows what gems of information are hidden in the kanji that clutter this country (besides the people that can read them)? Let's fighting ganbaro!

Stay tuned...more Matsuri Maiko pix to come...

Check out Justin Klien's Gion Matsuri Video to get a better idea of what this festival is all about!